| I'm posting a few of my thoughts and sharing what needs to be done for this swap to work (not all of what needs to be done, but probably 90% of it anyway) because I'm constantly bombarded with emails about the swap. (I happily respond, but it seems that I get the same question asked many times). That being said, read: Transmission:
• RB26 AWD bellhousing mated to the Z32 Transmission
• The front cover of the transmission (on the Z32 cover) needs the clutch pivot ball moved (drill & tap)
• Two holes need to be drilled and tapped on the RB26 bellhousing for the RB25DET slave cyl.
• You run a RB25DET clutch slave cylinder.
• RB26 flywheel
• N/A Z32 clutch and pressure plate (240mm). It bolts right up.
• RB26 pilot bushing.
• Use the original mounting locations of the Z32 trans crossmember and mount. (so no mods necessary)
• Use OEM Z32 driveshaft and shifter (and associated parts). Steering/Suspension/Front Crossmember:
• Have to custom manufacture a front sway bar to clear the oil pan.
• Z32 front crossmember has to be modified to clear to oil pan.
• Custom made high pressure P/S line needs to be made. Engine:
• Custom made motor mounts must be made. Either welded to the frame or mated to the crossmember.
• RB26 AWD oil pan must have the “fins” on the bottom ground off. AWD parts removed/welded shut.
• FMIC is mounted to the front bumper support. Custom FMIC and intercooler piping.
• Radiator sits under the nose panel. Custom shroud & piping. Some people run a Honda Civic radiator, but I’m running the Speed and Sound Radiator. I used a “JEGS” 1.25” adaptor for a radiator cap.
• Downpipe and exhaust have to be custom made. 3” or 4” recommended.
• Recommended to run a standalone engine management like the Apexi Power FC D-Jetro or AEM.
• Recommended to run an external oil cooler (usually located on the US passenger side front)
• RB26 engine wiring harness needs to be spliced to the Z32 body harness for the Z32 dash to work like OEM (incl. Tach). Drawbacks:
• You will lose A/C due to the bracket needing to be relocated. (Possible, but not going to be easy)
• You will have to cut the front radiator support for the engine to even be lowered into the bay.
• With a N/A Z32 clutch, your clutch selections are limited, flywheel choices even more limited because most of the RB26 cluches are the “pull type” and multi-disc sets that usually won’t work here.
• You will lose low end torque compared to the VG30DETT. This is definitely a “top end” motor.
• Parts take forever to get from Japan, Australia, or Canada (if you’re in the USA).
• Parts (and mods) are EXPENSIVE. Lesson learned early on: Don’t buy ebay parts for this engine EXCEPT for the turbo manifolds. The fuel rails, pulleys, etc. of “ebay parts” are all genuine 100% CRAP. Fortunately, there’s not a lot of said ebay parts for this engine anyway. Downside is they are all TRUST/HKS/GREDDY/NISMO brand name part$. Plusses:
• Far easier to work on compared to the VG30DETT.
• Can change oil filter standing above the engine.
• HUGE aftermarket, HUGE potential for more power. (but I’d say still on the same lines as the VG30)
• A VERY unique swap to the Z32. Less than a dozen known running swaps in the Z32. My thoughts:
• If you think a “$3000 JDM Engine and a few thousand dollars” is going to get you a working RB26DETT turnkey swap, you’d be wrong. There’s a reason shops charge $18,000-$20,000 on up for this swap.
• If I was going to do it all over again, I would just stay with a VG30DETT. The original idea of me wanting to do this swap was for simplicity in working on the engine. That was the SOLE idea/reason behind it come to think of it. And the RB26 isn’t exactly an “easy” engine to work on, but it is easier than many other options out there.
• You don’t realize how expensive this swap really is until you get into the bits and pieces needed. The little things will nickel and dime you to death. I bought a lot of the parts USED (turbo $750, Z32 swap parts $2000, Exhaust $400, Oil pan modified $450, etc..) so had I not been able to buy those parts, this swap could have easily cost $3000 or more dollars extra.
• Just stick with the VG30. Unless you’re just gung-ho on putting an RB26 in your Z32, stay with what’s already in your car. P.S. I'll have new pics up in a week or two. I'm shooting the clear on my engine bay this weekend and the following weekend I'll be putting the engine back in and start getting everything put together and in its place. Previous pic from the "testing clearances" weekend (and before it was painted...some paint already ground off) 
...and what the engine looked like about a year and a half ago:
Z's:
1990 TTZ (RB26DETT nearing completion....running soon!)
505 RWHP/483 FT/lb @18psi @ 380' ALT Oct. 2008
457 RWHP/441 FT/lb @18psi @ 5800' ALT Nov. 2007
436 RWHP/433 FT/lb @17psi @ 5300' ALT June 2006 Previous Z's:
1991 TTZ 368 RWHP/404 FT/lb @17psi
1994 TTZ 262 RWHP/271 FT/lb @11psi
1990 N/A 238 RWHP/226 FT/lb w/50 shot Nitrous
1990 TTZ (from the THIEF Arley Leghorn in Mt. View, CA) 2003 350z Sunset Lemans Touring Edition
2003 G35 Coupe, procharged.
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My thoughts on the RB26DETT swap in the Z32 thus far... - 
